Editor’s note: Lifelong friends Safina Shohaydarova and Furough Shakarmamadova, both 23, took turns guiding the Out of Eden Walk project more than 230 miles and 20 days through the Pamir range of Tajikistan—the desolate “roof of the world” that towers above the heart of Central Asia. Below, the two employees of the Pamirs Eco-Cultural Tourism Association summarize their experiences as pioneering female wilderness guides from the local Ismaili community, a Muslim Shiite sect renowned for its emphasis on educating women.
Safina: Walking to a Wedding
I first gained my love of mountains while participating in the Women rock’in Pamirs project, a nonprofit program that teaches camping and trekking skills to young women in Tajikistan. This outdoor training prepares women for jobs in the ecotourism industry. In Tajikistan, especially in rural communities, women have trouble finding work outside the home.
To guide Paul Salopek through the region was not an easy decision. It differed from much of my previous guiding experience because it meant I was going to walk alone with a guy for more than 200 kilometers (120 miles), mostly near the empty Pamir Highway. I felt very proud when I walked 30 kilometers on the first day. That was way more than I am used to. It gave me lots of confidence that I am a physically strong person.
During my walk I learned plenty of things about the Pamir’s natural environment, wildlife, people—and even about walking in the Pamirs itself. For example, during our stops in villages I was met with plenty of questions and comments like: “How is it possible for a girl?” “Don’t you want to stop?” “We can find you a car to go home.” Or even, “We can find a guy to replace you. It’s not a girl’s job.” But all those doubts made me even more proud, which gave more strength to continue.
The biggest thing I learned from this journey was to admire and love what you have at hand: the environment and the people. I asked Paul several times, “Aren’t you homesick? Don’t you miss your family?” And his response was always: “I am at home, I am carrying my home with me.”
Usually when I go to the mountains, one week on the trail is enough for me to feel homesick. After this walk I started to appreciate how lovely the places where we stayed were, and I didn’t think much about home. I got attached to walking across such an amazing landscape, and I became friends with Paul, our donkey wrangler, Safar Ali, and of course our cargo donkey. To be honest, the hardest part was to leave the walk after 14 days. I had no choice: I was hurrying from the trail to attend my own wedding.
Shakarmamadova helps load the donkey.
Paul Salopek
Furough: Finding a Donkey—and Water
A degree in tourism first became available at our local college, the Khorog State University, in 2012. I joined the first class, and I loved my studies a lot. Yet at our university we did not have experts specialized in the field. And that is why I began to look for some practical experience and opportunities through guiding. I am closely attached to nature. I became very interested in the Pamir mountains, and I am very proud to take people there.
Four years ago it was not easy for women to go hiking in our region. Safina and I are among the few females who broke old stereotypes such as “women are not able to go camping” or “women should not go to the mountains.” That is why as a young Pamiri woman, it was fine for me to join the Out of Eden Walk.
Walking between 25 and 30 kilometers a day in the mountains was not a difficult task. The main challenge I faced was preparing for the trip. I had to buy a cargo donkey (the most difficult job), find transport for donkey handler Safar Ali and myself along the isolated Pamir Highway, and research the route before the trip. As a guide I was responsible for locating water, good camping spots, and food for our donkey. Because of this responsibility, for three months before Paul Salopek even came to Tajikistan I was worried that something would go wrong. When Paul arrived, he taught me a very good lesson. During our walk, when we faced some challenges, he remained very calm and helpful. I learned that even if you try your best, something unexpected can happen. You should be ready for anything.
Strangers we met on our route were always very surprised that I am a young woman doing what they think is a hard job. Even now I still get calls from some of them asking if I’m alright after this long walk.
