I was going to celebrate reaching the 50th Milestone of the Out of Eden Walk.
Every hundred miles I perform this ritual, recording the physical essences of the walked Earth. Fifty is a nice round number. But I forgot. I walked right past it. It was a hot day, and we were pressing hard to reach the village of Langar. So I had to hire a car and drive back. Somebody needs to invent an alarm for a GPS device. Or I need to learn, after almost five years of walking, how to properly use mine.
The river is a Pamir headwater stream of the fabled Amu Darya—known in ancient times as the Oxus. Alexander the Great reportedly floated his army across it using his men’s skin tents as inflatable rafts. He had no problems with technology.